From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Mountaineers, rock climbers, and ice climbers
This is a list of climbers and mountaineers who are notable for their activities in
mountaineering (including
alpine climbing ),
rock climbing (including
aid climbing ,
free climbing ,
bouldering ,
speed climbing and
competition climbing ) or in
ice climbing (including
mixed climbing ).
A
Vitaly Abalakov (1906–1992) Russia, climbed
Lenin Peak (1934) and
Khan Tengri (1936)
Yevgeniy Abalakov (1907–1948) Russia, climbed
Communism Peak (1933)
Premlata Agarwal (born 1963) India, first Indian woman to complete all
Seven Summits
H. P. S. Ahluwalia (fl. 1965) India, climbed
Mount Everest in 1965
Pierre Allain (1904–2000) France, developed bouldering at
Fontainebleau , and rubber rock-climbing shoes
Christian Almer (1826–1898) Switzerland, numerous first ascents, including
Eiger
Ashraf Aman (born 1943) Pakistan, first Pakistani ascent of
K2
Luigi Amedeo, Duke of Abruzzi (1873–1933) Italy, first ascent of
Mount Saint Elias of the
Rwenzori Mountains
Pat Ament (born 1946) US, rock climber, and pioneer boulderer
Melchior Anderegg (1827–1912) Switzerland, guide, with numerous first ascents, including on
Mont Blanc
Conrad Anker (born 1963) US, discovered
Mallory 's body on Everest in 1999
Tyler Armstrong (born 2004) US, in 2013, at age 9, the youngest to climb
Aconcagua
Melissa Arnot (born 1983) US, six ascents of Everest
Bernd Arnold (born 1947) Germany, more than 900 first ascents in
Saxon Switzerland
Armando Aste (1926–2017) Italy, first Italian ascent of the
Eiger north face
Peter Athans (born 1957) US, seven ascents of Mount Everest
Peter Aufschnaiter (1899–1973) Austria, mountaineer; friend of
Heinrich Harrer (per
Seven Years in Tibet )
Abdul Jabbar Bhatti , Pakistani mountaineer and the former military officer of the
Pakistan Army
Nelly Attar (born 1990) Saudi/Lebanese, was the first Arab woman to summit K2 (2022).
B
Jacques Balmat
Adam Bielecki
Arlene Blum
David Breashears
Bill Westbay, Jim Bridwell (center), and John Long
Samina Baig (born 1990) Pakistan, third Pakistani, and the first Pakistani woman, to climb
Mount Everest
John Bachar (1957–2009) US, leading
Yosemite-based rock climber and
free soloist in the 1970s
John Ball (1818–1889)
Ireland , naturalist, climber, and guidebook author, first president of
Alpine Club (1857)
Jacques Balmat (1762–1834)
Duchy of Savoy ,
Chamonix-based guide, first ascent Mont Blanc (1786)
George Band (1929–2011) UK, first ascent of
Kangchenjunga on the
1955 British expedition
Kinga Baranowska (born 1975) Poland, first Polish woman to climb
Dhaulagiri ,
Manaslu and
Kangchenjunga
Anna Barańska (born 1976) Poland, first Polish woman to climb the North Face of
Mount Everest
Henry Barber (born 1953) US, leading US rock climber in the 1970s
Andrzej Bargiel (born 1988) Poland,
Snow Leopard record holder, several first
ski mountaineering descents of
eight-thousanders
Lilliane and Maurice Barrard (1948–1986 and 1941?–1986) France, Nanga Parbat (1984, first female), both killed on
K2
Charles Barrington (1834–1901) UK, first ascent of the
Eiger (1858)
Richard Bass (1929–2015) US, businessman and amateur mountaineer, first to complete the
Seven Summits (1985)
Robert Hicks Bates (1911–2007) US, first ascent of
Mount Lucania (1937), part of US attempts on K2 in
1938 and
1953
Mark Beaufoy (1764–1827) UK, fourth ascent
Mont Blanc (1787)
Fred Beckey (Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey) (1923–2017) Germany/US, many
first ascents of North American peaks
Bentley Beetham (1886–1963) UK, member of the
1924 Everest expedition ; pioneer rock climber in
Borrowdale
George Irving Bell (1926–2000) US,
physicist ,
biologist and mountaineer, first ascent
Masherbrum (1960), rescued on K2 (1953)
Gertrude Bell (1868–1926) UK, many ascents in the Alps; the Swiss peak Gertrudspitze was
named in her honor
Maciej Berbeka (1954–2013) Poland, first winter ascents of 3
eight-thousanders :
Manaslu ,
Cho Oyu , and
Broad Peak
Josune Bereziartu (born 1972)
Basque (Spain),
first-ever female to climb
grade
8c (5.14b),
8c+ (5.14c), and
9a (5.14d)
Patrick Berhault (1957–2004) France, several first free ascents of major
sport climbing and
alpine climbing routes
Didier Berthod (born 1981) Switzerland, leading
traditional climber who quit after failing on
Cobra Crack
5.14a (8b+)
Adam Bielecki (born 1983) Poland, first winter ascents of 2 eight-thousanders:
Gasherbrum I and
Broad Peak
John Biggar (born 1964) Scotland, several first ascents in the
Andes
Isabella Bird (1831–1904) UK, traveler, writer, and natural historian; first female fellow of the
Royal Geographical Society
Barry Blanchard (born 1959) Canada, mountain guide; first ascents in the
Saint Elias range of Alaska
Smoke Blanchard (1915–1989) US, developed
The Buttermilks
bouldering area in
Bishop, California
Karl Blodig (1859–1956) Austria, mountaineer,
optician and
journalist ; first to climb all
4,000 metre peaks in the Alps
Arlene Blum (born 1945) US, part of the first US female attempt on
Everest , led the first
all-woman ascent of Annapurna
Peter Boardman (1950–1982) UK, Everest 1975,
Changabang 1976,
Kanchenjunga 1979, died on Everest with
Joe Tasker
Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau (1857–1923) France, first ascent
La Meije with father and son
Pierre Gaspard (1877)
Jean-Marc Boivin (1951–1990) France, first ascents of extreme
alpine routes , pioneer of
extreme skiing and
BASE jumping
Walter Bonatti (1930–2011) Italy, mountaineer and writer, solo new routes on
Aiguille du Dru and
Matterhorn
Sir
Chris Bonington (born 1934) UK, first ascent of Freney Pillar (1961),
Tower of Paine (1962–3); ascent of 3
eight-thousanders
Thomas George Bonney (1833–1923) UK, geologist and mountaineer, president of the
Alpine Club
Jack Borgenicht (1911–2005) US, garment manufacturer, philanthropist, the oldest person to climb
Mount Rainier at age 81
Alastair Borthwick (1913–2003) Scotland, climber and author of Always a Little Further
Christine Boskoff (1967–2006) US, 6
eight-thousanders , including Everest twice, died on
Genyen Peak
Sébastien Bouin (born 1993) France, first ascent of DNA (2022), the
world's second-ever
9c (5.15d) route
Anatoli Boukreev (1958–1997) Russia, 7
eight-thousanders without oxygen, part of
1996 Everest disaster , died on
Annapurna
Loulou Boulaz (1908–1991) Switzerland, several first ascents and first female ascents in the Alps
Tom Bourdillon (1924–1956) UK,
Cho Oyu (1952), part of
1953 British Everest expedition , first to Everest South Summit (1953)
Stipe Božić (born 1951) FPR Yugoslavia, completed the
Seven Summits , second European to climb
Everest twice
Lydia Bradey (born 1961) New Zealand, first woman to climb
Everest without supplementary oxygen 1988
Samuel Brawand (1898–2001) Switzerland, politician, and mountain guide; first ascent of
Mittellegigrat (1921)
David Breashears (born 1956) US, Everest twice, directed
IMAX film
Everest
Meta Brevoort (1825–1876) US, alpinist of
Victorian period , aunt of
W. A. B. Coolidge
Russell Brice (born 1952) New Zealand, set record for fastest solo ascent without oxygen of
Cho Oyu and
Ama Dablam
Jim Bridwell (1944–2018) US, first ascents of major
aid routes on
El Capitan ; first one-day ascent of
The Nose (1975)
David Brower (1912–2000) US, executive director of
Sierra Club and
Yosemite climber
Joe Brown (1930–2020) UK, first ascent of
Cenotaph Corner , the
Aiguille de Blaitière west face, and
Kanchenjunga (1955)
Katie Brown (born 1981) US, pioneer female
competition climber (
X Games ,
Rock Master , and
World Cup ), and
big wall climber
Geoffrey Bruce (1896–1972) UK, first to reach 8,300 metres (27,300 ft) on
Mount Everest (1922).
Hermann Buhl (1924–1957) Austria, first ascent
Nanga Parbat (1953) and of
Broad Peak (1957), died on
Chogolisa
Alexander Burgener (1845–1910) Switzerland, first ascent
Zmuttgrat ,
Grands Charmoz ,
Aiguille du Grépon ,
Lenzspitze , and
Grand Dru
Jean Buridan (c. 1300–1358) France, climbed
Mont Ventoux for the view, before
Petrarch
C
Yvon Chouinard
Chhurim
Johann Coaz
Emilio Comici
Michel Croz
Tommy Caldwell (born 1978) US, first free ascents of
big wall routes on
El Capitan , including Dawn Wall ,
first-ever at
9a (5.14d)
Una Cameron (1904–1987) UK, ascents in the Alps, Caucasus, and Africa
Louis Ramond de Carbonnières (1755–1827) France, scientist and Pyrenean pioneer
Kim Carrigan (born 1958) Australia, first ascents of the first-ever
Ewbank grade 26, 27, 28, 29 and 30, routes.
Carlos Carsolio (born 1962) Mexico, the
fourth person to summit all 14
eight-thousanders (1985–1996)
Riccardo Cassin (1909–2009) Italy, equipment manufacturer and pioneer alpinist; first ascent of the north face of
Piz Badile (1937), and the north face of the
Grandes Jorasses (
Walker Spur , 1938)
Cristina Castagna (1977–2009) Italy, first Italian female ascent of
Makalu , ascent of several other
eight-thousanders
Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz (1942–1978) Britain, first ascent of
Gasherbrum III
Ludwik Chałubiński (1860–1933) Poland, first ascent of
Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki
Armand Charlet (1900–1975) France, many first ascents in the
Mont Blanc massif
Isabella Charlet-Straton (1838–1918) UK, first ascents in
Alps , first winter ascent of
Mont Blanc (1876)
Maxime Chaya (born 1961) Lebanon, climbed
Everest (2006),
Seven Summits and
Three Poles Challenge
Chhurim (born 1984) Nepal, the first woman to summit
Everest twice in a week
Renata Chlumska (born 1973) Sweden, first Swedish female ascent of
Everest (1999)
Yvon Chouinard (born 1938) US, pioneer of big wall and aid climbing in
Yosemite , founder of
Chouinard Equipment and
Patagonia
Leszek Cichy (born 1951) Poland,
first winter ascent of
Everest with
Krzysztof Wielicki
John Clarke (1945–2003) Ireland-Canada, explorer with over 600 first ascents in
Coast Range of
British Columbia
Vern Clevenger (born 1955) US, first ascent
Cholatse (1982), numerous first routes ascents in
Sierra Nevada
Ian Clough (1939–1970) UK, first ascent
Am Buachaille (1968), first UK ascent
Eiger north face (1962), died on
Annapurna
Norman Clyde (1886–1972) US, pioneer of California's
Sierra Nevada
Johann Coaz (1822–1918) Switzerland, first ascent of
Piz Bernina
J. Norman Collie (1859–1942) UK, first ascent
Ben Nevis Tower Ridge,
Nanga Parbat expedition (1895)
Emilio Comici (1901–1940) Italy, pioneer of
big wall climbing and
aid climbing ; first ascent
Cima Grande north face (1933)
Achille Compagnoni (1914–2009) Italy, first ascent of
K2 with
Lino Lacedelli on the
1954 Italian Karakoram expedition to K2
Kyra Condie (born 1996) US, member of the 2020 US Olympic climbing team
Herb and Jan Conn (Herb: 1921–2012) US, early pioneers of climbing and caving in
Carderock ,
Seneca Rocks , and the
Black Hills
William Martin Conway (1856–1937) UK, surveyor and explorer (Karakoram, Spitsbergen, Andes & Alps)
Kenton Cool (born 1973) UK, several
eight-thousanders (
Everest over seventeen times); ski descents of
Cho Oyu and
Manaslu
W. A. B. Coolidge (1850–1926) US, over 1,700 expeditions in the Alps with numerous first ascents, Alpine historian
Janne Corax (born 1967) Sweden, cycled across the Tibetan plateau and claimed several first ascents of Tibetan mountains
Henri Cordier (1856–1877) France, first ascents
Aiguille du Plat de la Selle ,
Les Droites (east summit) (1876)
Patrick Cordier (1947–1996) France, first and solo ascents in the Alps; French Direct
Troll Wall (1967) and
The Nose solo (1973)
Jean Couzy (1923–1958) France, first ascent of
Makalu with
Terray on the
1955 French Makalu expedition
Lucy Creamer (born 1971) UK, early British female
competition climber , and alpine and ice climber.
Peter Croft (born 1958) Canada,
free soloing pioneer (Astroman , Rostrum ); many first ascents in the Sierra Nevada
Aleister Crowley (1875–1947) UK, occultist, writer, and rock climber, led early expeditions on
K2 and on
Kanchenjunga
Michel Croz (1830–1865) France, mountain guide with numerous first ascents, died on the first ascent of the
Matterhorn
John Cunningham (1927–1980) Scotland, pioneered new
climbing techniques in
ice climbing
Bronisław Czech (1908–1944) Poland, a mountain rescue pioneer in the
Tatra Mountains
Anna Czerwińska (born 1949) Poland, first woman over age 50 to ascend
Everest , first Polish female to climb
Seven Summits
Andrzej Czok (1948–1986) Poland, first winter ascent of
Dhaulagiri , and first ascent of
Everest via the South Pillar
D
Clinton Thomas Dent
Kurt Diemberger
Kalpana Dash (born 1966) India, first from
Odisha , India to climb
Everest (2008)
Sophia Danenberg (born 1972) US, first African American and first black woman to ascend
Everest (2006)
Steph Davis (born 1973) US, second female one-day free climb
El Capitan and first female to free climb the
Salathé Wall (2005)
Johnny Dawes (born 1964) UK, the first free ascent of
E9 (
Indian Face , 1986), and
E8 (
Gaia , 1985)
traditional climbing routes
José Antonio Delgado (1965–2006) Venezuela, five
eight-thousanders (1994–2006), died on
Nanga Parbat
Clinton Thomas Dent (1850–1912) UK, first ascent
Lenzspitze (1870),
Aiguille du Dru (1878); expeditions to the
Caucasus
Ardito Desio (1897–2001) Italy, geologist and leader of successful
1954 Italian Karakoram expedition to K2
Catherine Destivelle (born 1960) France,
first female to climb
8a+ (5.13c), first female to winter solo of the "
north face trilogy "
Kurt Diemberger (born 1932) Austria, first ascent of
Broad Peak (1957) and
Dhaulagiri (1960), climbed K2 (
1986 K2 disaster )
Sasha DiGiulian (born 1992) US, the first female to free climb Magic Mushroom
7c+ (5.13a) on the
Eiger north face
Jan Długosz (1929–1962) Poland, numerous alpine ascents in the Tatras and Alps; first ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney
Sarah Doherty (1959–2023) US, the first amputee to reach the summit of
Denali without a
prosthetic limb
Jim Donini (born 1943) US, first ascent of
Torre Egger (1976), president of the
American Alpine Club (2006–2009)
Hans Christian Doseth (1958–1984) Norway, first ascent of the East Face of
Great Trango Tower (1984), died during the descent
Lord Francis Douglas (1847–1865) Scotland, died on the descent after the first ascent of the
Matterhorn (1965)
Lonnie Dupre (born 1961) US, Artic explorer, made a rare solo winter ascent of
Denali
Hans Dülfer (1892–1915) Germany, pioneer free climber, inventor of the
Dülfersitz abseil technique; killed in World War I
Hayatullah Khan Durrani (born 1962) Pakistan, mountaineer, and rock climber
Günther Dyhrenfurth (1886–1975) German/Swiss, Himalayan explorer, led German expeditions to
Kanchenjunga (1930, 1931)
E
James Eccles (1838–1915) UK, first ascents in the
Mont Blanc massif
Oscar Eckenstein (1859–1921) UK, alpinist, rock climber, and pioneer of
bouldering ; inventor of modern
crampon
Patrick Edlinger (1960–2012) France,
first-ever person to
onsight
7c (5.12d), and
second-ever person to redpoint
7c+ (5.13a); prolific
free soloist
Angela Eiter (born 1986) Austria,
first-ever female to redpoint – and to make an FFA – at
9b (5.15b); successful
competition climber
Albert R. Ellingwood (22 June 1887 – 12 May 1934) pioneer of climbing peaks in the Rocky Mountains and Colorado in particular
Zsolt Erőss (1968–2013) Hungary, ten
eight-thousanders , two with a prosthetic leg, died on descent from
Kangchenjunga
Susan Ershler (born 1956) US, climbed
Seven Summits
Leila Esfandyari (1970–2011) Iran, first Iranian woman to climb
Nanga Parbat ; died on
Gasherbrum II
Jens Esmark (1763–1839) Norway, first ascent
Snøhetta (1798) and
Gaustatoppen , led first expedition to
Bitihorn
Nick Estcourt (1942–1978) UK, alpinist; killed on
K2 by
avalanche on the
1970 British Annapurna South Face expedition
Charles Evans (1918–1995) UK, deputy leader of
1953 British Mount Everest expedition , and leader of
1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition
John Ewbank (1948–2013) Australia, pioneer of Australian rock climbing, invented
Ewbank grading system
F
Douglas Freshfield
Tom Frost
Freda du Faur (1882–1935) Australia, first female ascent of
Aoraki / Mount Cook
Ron Fawcett (born 1955) UK, pioneer professional rock climber, first ascent of
Master's Edge
E7 6c
Sue Fear (1963–2006) Australia, five
eight-thousanders , killed in crevasse fall on
Manaslu
Rudolf Fehrmann (1886–1947) Germany, pioneer rock climber in the
Elbe Sandstone Mountains
Darby Field (1610–1649) UK, first European to climb
Mount Washington (New Hampshire) (1642)
George Ingle Finch (1888–1970) Australia, reached 8,300 m on
1922 British Everest expedition ; north face of
Dent d'Hérens
Hazel Findlay (born 1989) UK, first British female to ascend a
traditional climbing route at
grade E9
Scott Fischer (1955–1996) US, ascents of
Lhotse (1990),
K2 (1992),
Everest (1994); died in
1996 Mount Everest disaster
Hans Florine (born 1964) US, won first
world speed championships in 1991, set a speed record on
The Nose of 2:36:45 (2012)
James David Forbes (1809–1868) UK, first British ascent of the
Jungfrau
Charlie Fowler (1954–2006) US,
free soloist and high-altitude mountaineer
Mick Fowler (born 1956) UK, leading
traditional climber ,
ice climber and
alpinist ; winner of three
Piolet d'Ors (2003, 2013, 2016)
Douglas Freshfield (1845–1934) UK, ascents in the Alps,
Scotland ,
Himalayas , and
Pyrenees ; president of
Alpine Club
Tom Frost US, first ascents of
big wall routes on
El Capitan including
Salathé Wall (1961) and North American Wall (1964)
Fritiof Fryxell (1900–1986) US, geologist, and park ranger, first ascents in the
Teton Range
Wang Fuzhou (1935–2015) China, first ascent of the north face of
Everest , first ascent of
Shishapangma
G
Conrad Gessner
John Gill
Stefan Glowacz
Paul Güssfeldt
Patrick Gabarrou (born 1951) France, first ascents of extreme
alpine routes in
Mont Blanc massif (Hypercouloir , Supercouloir )
Will Gadd (born 1967) Canada, pioneer
mixed climber (
first M9 and M12 ), and pioneer of
Helmcken extreme ice routes
Ryszard Gajewski (born 1954) Poland,
first-ever winter ascent of
Manaslu
Lene Gammelgaard Denmark, part of the
1996 Mount Everest disaster ; first Scandinavian female ascent of
Everest
João Garcia (born 1967) Portugal,
10th person to climb all 14
eight-thousanders without oxygen (1993–2010)
Rolando Garibotti (born 1971) Argentina/US, first ascents on
Fitz Roy and
Cerro Torre including the Torre Traverse (2008)
Janja Garnbret (born 1999) Slovenia, the
most successful
competition climber in history;
first-ever female to
onsight
8c (5.14b)
Pierre Gaspard (1834–1915) France, first ascent
La Meije with his son and
Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau
Chanda Gayen (1979–2014) India, the first woman from West Bengal to climb
Everest ; killed on
Kanchenjunga
Lakpa Gelu (born 1967) Nepal, mountain guide who summitted
Everest over 12 times; set one-day speed records on Everest
Lester Germer (1896–1971) US,
physicist ,
World War I
fighter pilot and prominent rock climber in the
Gunks
Conrad Gessner (1516–1565) Switzerland,
naturalist and early mountaineer in the Alps
Azim Gheychisaz (born 1981) Iran,
18th person to climb all 14
eight-thousanders without oxygen (2008–2017)
John Gill (born 1937) US, "father" of modern bouldering, and
first-ever to climb
7B (V8) and
7C (V9); introduced
chalk to climbing
Stefan Glowacz (born 1965) Germany,
second-ever
onsight at
8b (5.13d), and
second-ever
8b+ (5.14a) multi-pitch ascent
Alessandro Gogna (born 1946) Italy, several first winter (and solo) ascents of major Alpine north faces
Dan Goodwin (born 1955) US, known for
buildering (
World Trade Center ,
Sears Tower ,
John Hancock Center and
CN Tower )
Alec and Peter Graham , New Zealand mountaineers, mountain guides and hotel operators
Dave Graham (born 1981) US, leading boulderer of his generation, first ascent of
The Story of Two Worlds
V15 (8C)
Tormod Granheim (born 1974) Norway, first ski mountaineering descent the north face of
Everest (2006)
Chloé Graftiaux (1987–2010) Belgium, rock climber (sport and bouldering) and
alpinist ; bronze in
2010 World Cup for bouldering
William Spotswood Green (1847–1919) New Zealand, ascents in the
Selkirks , and
Mount Green is named in his honor
Paul Grohmann (1838–1908) Austria, numerous first ascents in the
Eastern Alps in the 19th century
Michael Groom (born 1959) Australia, ascents of
Lhotse ,
Kangchenjunga ,
K2 , and
Everest without bottled oxygen
Bear Grylls (born 1974) in 1998, youngest Briton to summit
Everest (age 23)
Wolfgang Güllich (1960–1992) Germany,
first-ever to redpoint grade
8b (5.13d),
8b+ (5.14a),
8c (5.14b), and
9a (5.14d);
first-ever to
free solo at
7c (5.12d) (and to free solo
Separate Reality ); co-inventor of the
campus board
Paul Güssfeldt (1840–1920) Germany, first ascent
Peuterey ridge and
Piz Scerscen , first European attempt on
Aconcagua (1883)
Veikka Gustafsson (born 1968) Finland,
9th person to climb all 14
eight-thousanders without oxygen (1993–2009)
H
Artur Hajzer
Colin Haley
Heinrich Harrer
Elizabeth Hawkins-Whitshed
Lynn Hill
Edmund Hillary
Peter Habeler (born 1942) Austria, first ascent without supplementary oxygen Everest (1978) with
Reinhold Messner
Douglas Robert Hadow (1846–1865) UK, died on first ascent
Matterhorn (1865)
Dave Hahn (born 1961) US, 11 Everest ascents, 26
Vinson Massif ascents, 19
Denali ascents
Artur Hajzer (1962–2013) Poland, first winter ascent of
Annapurna with
Jerzy Kukuczka (1987)
Colin Haley (born 1984) US, traverses and speed solo ascents in
Patagonia and the
Alaska Range
Lincoln Hall (1956–2012) Australia, rescued at 8,700m on descent from Everest (2006)
Rob Hall (1960–1996) New Zealand, Seven Summits in seven months, died in
1996 Mount Everest disaster
Peter Harding (1924–2007) UK, leading British
traditional climbing pioneer of the 1940s
Warren J. Harding (1924–2002) US, first ascents of
big wall
aid climbing routes on
El Capitan , first ascent
The Nose (1958)
Alison Hargreaves (1963–1995) UK, first solo of the
6 great north faces in one season; first female solo of Everest (1995)
John Harlin (1934–1966) US, leading American
alpinist of the 1960s, killed creating the Harlin Route on the
Eiger north face
Heinrich Harrer (1912–2006) Austria, first ascent of the
Eiger north face (1938), and the
Carstensz Pyramid (1962), author of
The White Spider (1959) and
Seven Years in Tibet (1952)
Brette Harrington (born 1992) US, first free solo of big wall route, Chiaro di Luna , in
Patagonia ; partner of
Marc-André Leclerc
Ginette Harrison (1958–1999) UK, Seven Summits, first female ascent
Kangchenjunga (1998), killed on
Dhaulagiri
Dougal Haston (1940–1977)
Scotland , first ascent
Annapurna south face (1970) , killed in avalanche near
Leysin
Elizabeth Hawkins-Whitshed (1860–1934) UK, pioneer of mountaineering, mountain photographer, author
Margo Hayes (born 1998) US, first-ever female to climb
5.15a (9a+); first female to complete the "9a+ trilogy"
Andreas Heckmair (1906–2005) Germany, first ascent of the
Eiger north face (known as the
1938 Heckmair Route )
Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich (1937–1989) Poland, several first ascents of new routes (and some in winter) on
eight-thousanders
Gary Hemming (1934–1969) US, first ascent south face
Aiguille du Fou
Siegfried Herford (1891–1916) UK, first ascent
Scafell Central Buttress (1914)
Derek Hersey (1956–1993) UK, prominent
free soloist in Britain and America; died unroped on the
Steck-Salathé Route
Maurice Herzog (1919–2012) France, leader of the
1950 French Annapurna expedition , and
first ascent of
Annapurna (1950)
Tom Higgins (1944–2018) US, first and first free ascents in US, also in France outside Chamonix
Lynn Hill (born 1961) US, first free ascent The Nose on El Capitan,
Yosemite (1993)
Sandy Hill (born 1955) US, ascended
Everest during the
1996 Mount Everest disaster ; completed the
Seven Summits
Edmund Hillary (1919–2008) New Zealand,
first ascent of
Everest with
Norgay on the
1953 British Mount Everest expedition
Alan Hinkes OBE (born 1954) UK, first Briton to climb all 14
eight-thousanders but his claim was
disputed regarding
Cho Oyu
Andreas Hinterstoisser (1914–1936) Germany, killed in the
1936 Eiger climbing disaster , first to climb the Hinterstoisser Traverse
Yuji Hirayama (born 1969) Japan,
World Cup winner in lead (1998, 2000),
first-ever to
onsight at
8c (5.14b), and
speed records on
The Nose
Marty Hoey (1951–1982) US, mountain guide and ski patroller, died on
Everest attempting to become the first US woman to ascend it
Charles F. Hoffmann (1838–1913) US, surveyor and mountaineer, several first ascents in
Sierra Nevada
Jim Holloway (born 1954) US, bouldering pioneer, and
first-ever to ascend a boulder at the grade of
V12 (8A+) with Trice .
Alex Honnold (born 1985) US, prolific
free soloist and
first-ever
free solo of a
5.13a (7c+) multi-pitch route,
Piolet d'Or in
2015 for Moonwalk Traverse
Tom Hornbein (born 1930) US, first ascent of
Everest via the West Ridge (1963); the
Hornbein Couloir was named in his honour.
Steve House (born 1970) US, solo ascent
K7 (2004),
Piolet d'Or in
2006 for the first ascent of the
Rupal Face of
Nanga Parbat (2005)
Charles Houston (1913–2009) US, first ascent
Mount Foraker (1934), led the ultimately unsuccessful American expeditions to
K2 in
1938 and
1953
Alexander Huber (born 1968) Germany,
first-ever to redpoint single-pitch at grade
9a+ (5.15a), and
first-ever to ascend multi-pitch at
8a (5.13b) and
8c (5.14b);
first-ever to
free solo single pitch at
8b+ (5.14a), and
first-ever to free solo multi-pitch at
7a+ (5.12a); several first ascents of big wall climbs
Thomas Huber (born 1966) Germany,
Piolet d'Or in
2001 for
Shivling ; big wall ascents in
Yosemite and
Pakistan with brother
Alexander Huber
Charles Hudson (1828–1865) UK, first ascents of
Monte Rosa (1855) and the
Matterhorn (1865)
Tomaž Humar (1969–2009) Slovenia, solo ascent of
Dhaulagiri south wall (1999),
Piolet d'Or in
1997 for the northwest face of
Ama Dablam (1996)
Alexander von Humboldt (1769–1859) Germany, set a European altitude record on
Chimborazo (1802)
John Hunt (1910–1998) UK, overall leader of the successful
1953 British Mount Everest expedition
I
Marcel Ichac (1906–1994) France, filmed the first French expedition to the
Karakoram (1936), and the successful
1950 French Annapurna expedition
Dimitar Ilievski (1953–1989) Macedonia, the first Macedonian to climb
Everest , died on the descent
Ulrich Inderbinen (1900–2004) Switzerland,
mountain guide with 371 ascents of the
Matterhorn , the last at 90 years old
Alberto Iñurrategi (born 1968) Basque, Spain,
10th person to climb all 14
eight-thousanders (and
4th person to do so without oxygen)
Andrew Irvine (1902–1924) UK, died on the
1924 British Everest expedition with
George Mallory ; unlike Mallory, his body has not been found
R. L. G. Irving (1877–1969) UK, early
alpinist and climbing author; introduced
George Mallory to climbing
J
Margaret Jackson
John Jackson (1921–2005) UK, member of the
1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition ; head of Britain's
Plas y Brenin centre
Margaret Jackson (1843–1906) UK, pioneer female mountaineer in the Alps
Nicolas Jaeger (1946–1980) France, first French ascent of Mount Everest, and one of the
first ski descents of an
eight-thousander
Ray Jardine (born 1944) US,
first-ever to redpoint at
5.13a (7c+); inventor of
spring-loaded camming devices (or "friends")
Narendra Dhar Jayal (1927–1958) India, founder and first director of the
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute
Ganesh Jena (born 1972) India, first male from the Indian state of
Odisha to climb
Mount Everest
Jimmy Jewell (1953–1987) UK, prolific
free soloist of the 1970s and 1980s in Britain; died free soloing
Konstanty Jodko-Narkiewicz (1901–1963) Polish, mountaineer who led the first
1933–34 Polish Andean Expedition
Alex Johnson (born 1989) US, five-time American national bouldering champion and two-time
Bouldering World Cup stage winner
Raghav Joneja (born 1997) India, youngest Indian to climb Mount Everest
Kevin Jorgeson (born 1984) US, first free climb of the Dawn Wall of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, US
K
Dora Keen
Jerzy Kukuczka
Jaan Künnap
Meherban Karim (1979–2008) Pakistan, Gasherbrum II, Nanga Parbat, and K2 (all three without supplementary oxygen), died on descent of K2
Conrad Kain (1883–1934) Austria/Canada, over 50 first ascents in the Canadian Rockies including
Mount Robson
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 1970) Austria, the first woman to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen
Bob Kamps (1931–2005) US, pioneer of the golden age of Yosemite climbing and
5.10 and 5.11 routes in America
Harish Kapadia (born 1945) India, Himalayan veteran
Fritz Kasparek (1910–1954) Austria, first ascent of Eiger north face
Peter Kaufmann (1858–1924) Switzerland, guide in Alps and Canadian Rockies
Ron Kauk (born 1957) US, rock climber, many
first ascents in
Yosemite , stunt work for climbing movies
Robert Kayen (born 1959) US, rock climber, professor, scientist, first solo ascent of West Buttress of El Capitan
Dora Keen (1871–1963) US, ascents in Alps, member of
Royal Geographical Society , 1914
Alexander Kellas (1868–1921) UK, altitude record in 1911 on summit of Pauhunri (7,128 m)
Pat Kelly (died 1922) UK, rock climber and founder of Pinnacle Club
E. S. Kennedy (1817–1898) UK, first ascent
Monte Disgrazia ,
Mont Blanc du Tacul
Mikhail Khergiani (1932–1969)
Svan mountaineer of
Soviet Georgia , known as the Tiger of the Rocks
Clarence King (1842–1901) US,
geologist and
climber , first director of
USGS , first ascent
Mount Tyndall
Andy Kirkpatrick (born 1971) UK, rock and ice climber
Colin Kirkus (1910–1942) UK, rock climber and alpinist
Christian Klucker (1853–1928) Switzerland, guide, prolific first ascensionist in
Bernina Range and
Bregaglia
M.S. Kohli (born 1931) India, leader of the Indian Everest expedition (1965)
Layton Kor (1938–2013) US, rock climber and mountaineer, author of Beyond the Vertical
Dai Koyamada (born 1976) Japan,
sport climber and boulderer
Jon Krakauer (born 1954) US, author and mountaineer, Everest (1996)
Hans Kraus (1905–1995) Austria, rock climber,
sports medicine and
physical medicine and rehabilitation pioneer
Göran Kropp (1966–2002) Sweden, cycled a bike from Sweden to Everest, soloed Everest without oxygen, and then cycled home (1996)
Moriz von Kuffner (1854–1939) Austria, first ascents including Eiger north-east face and Mount Maudit's Kuffner Ridge
Julius Kugy (1858–1944) Austria-Slovenia, father of modern mountaineering in the
Julian Alps
Jerzy Kukuczka (1948–1989)
Poland , the second man to climb all
8,000m peaks (9 new routes), four eight-thousanders in winter, only person to climb two eight-thousanders in one winter
Colonel Narendra Kumar (1933–2020)
India ,
Siachen Glacier and Himalayan veteran
Jaan Künnap (born 1948) Estonia, mountaineer, and photographer
Janusz Kurczab (1937–2015) Poland, led 1976 Polish unsuccessful expedition to tackle the northeast ridge of K2
Wojciech Kurtyka (born 1947) Poland, pioneer of
alpine style in high mountains
Toni Kurz (1913–1936) Germany, attempted Eiger north face in 1936, died during retreat
L
Constantin Lăcătușu (born 1961) Romania
Lino Lacedelli (1925–2009) Italy,
first ascent K2 (1954) with
Achille Compagnoni
Louis Lachenal (1921–1955) France,
first ascent of Annapurna 1950 , with
Maurice Herzog ; died skiing in
Chamonix
Jean-Christophe Lafaille (1965–2006) France, 11
eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen; died on
Makalu
David Lama (1990–2019) Austria, climber and alpinist, notable for the first free ascent of
Cerro Torre
Katie Lamb (born 1997) US,
first-ever female to climb an
8C+ (V16) boulder with Box Therapy (2023)
Raymond Lambert (1914–1997) Switzerland, reached 8611m, highest altitude at that time, with 1952 Swiss Everest expedition
Samantha Larson (born 1988) US, youngest person to complete Seven Summits, at 18 in 2007
Marc-André Leclerc (1992–2018) Canada, First winter solo ascents of the Torre Egger in Patagonia and the Emperor Face of Mount Robson
Pete Livesey (1943–1998) UK, influential rock climber in the 1970s
John Long (born 1953) US, rock climber and writer; author of How to Rock Climb series
Erhard Loretan (1959–2011) Switzerland, 14
8,000m-plus summits (1982–1995)
Alex Lowe (1958–1999) US, climbed
Great Trango Tower , Rakekniven in
Antarctica and Sail Peak on
Baffin Island ; died on
Shishapangma
George Lowe (1924–2013) New Zealand, member of
1953 British Mount Everest Expedition
George Lowe (born 1944) US, alpinist and rock climber, notable for first ascents in the US and Canadian Rockies, Alps, Andes, and Himalayas
Jeff Lowe (1950–2018) US, made over 1000 first ascents in the US and Canadian Rockies, Alps and Himalayas
Fritz Luchsinger (1921–1983) Switzerland, first ascent of
Lhotse , in 1956
M
Reinhold Messner
Thomas Middlemore
Albert F. Mummery
Meherban Karim (1979–2008) Pakistan, Gasherbrum II, Nanga Parbat, K2 without supplementary oxygen
Ashish Mane (born 1990) India, Everest (2012), Lhotse (2013), Makalu (2014), Manaslu (2017)
Tim Macartney-Snape (born 1956) Australia, Everest (1984), first to climb Everest from sea level (1990)
Tomasz Mackiewicz (1975–2018) Poland, died on winter alpine-style ascent of
Nanga Parbat
Dave MacLeod (born 1978)
Scotland , made the first free ascent of the world's first E11 traditional climbing route
M. Magendran (born 1963) Malaysia, Everest (1997), first Malaysian/Tamil to reach the summit
Nasuh Mahruki (born 1968) Turkey, Snow Leopard, first Turkish and Muslim climber of Everest
Janusz Majer (born September 25, 1946) Poland
Maki Yūkō (1894–1989) Japan, first ascents of Mittellegigrat (Eiger northeast ridge),
Mount Alberta ; first winter ascent of
Mount Yari ; led
Manaslu first ascent
Tashi and Nungshi Malik (born 1991) India, many world first female twins records
George Mallory (1886–1924) UK, initial
1921 British Reconnaissance Expedition and the
1922 and
1924 British Mount Everest expeditions, died on Everest at 8,150+ metres
Sergio Martini (born 1949) Italy, seventh ascent of all eight-thousanders (1983–2000)
Marie Marvingt (1875–1963) France, first woman to climb most major peaks in the French and Swiss Alps (1903–7)
William Mathews (1828–1901) UK, founder of
Alpine Club , first ascent
Monte Viso ,
Grande Casse
Chantal Mauduit (1964–1998) France, six 8,000m summits without supplementary oxygen, died on
Dhaulagiri
John Oakley Maund (died 1902) UK, first ascents in Mont Blanc massif
Eylem Elif Maviş (born 1973) Turkey, first Turkish female ascent of Everest (2006)
Pierre Mazeaud (born 1929) France,
Walter Bonatti 's climbing partner, first French ascent of Everest (1978)
Daniel Mazur (born 1960) US, numerous ascents in the Himalayas and America
Steve McClure (born 1970) UK, first Briton to climb 9a twice
Duncan McDuffie (1877–1951) US, summits in the
Sierra Nevada
Richard "Dick" McGowan (1933–2007) US, first US successful ascent of Everest, International Himalayan Expedition (1955)
Ammon McNeely (born 1970) US, noteworthy first one-day ascents and speed records on El Capitan,
Yosemite and Zion big walls
Alex Megos (born 1993) first climber to on-sight 5.14d/9a route
Willy Merkl (1900–1934) Germany, led two expeditions to
Nanga Parbat (1932, 1934), died on the mountain
Alain Mesili (born 1949) France, disputed ascent on
Fitz Roy (1970) with Ricardo Arzela,
[1] pioneered routes in Bolivia
Günther Messner (1946–1970) Italy, died on Nanga Parbat
Reinhold Messner (born 1944) Italy, first to climb all eight-thousanders (1970–1986) and without supplementary oxygen, first ascent without supplementary oxygen of Everest with
Peter Habeler (1978) first solo Everest (1980)
Enid Michael (1883–1966) US, known for
ropeless climbing in Yosemite in the early 1900s
John Middendorf (born 1959) US, big-wall rock climber, first ascent East Wall
Great Trango Tower (1992)
Thomas Middlemore (1842–1923) UK, first ascents in Mont Blanc and Bernina massifs, and Bernese Alps
Gwen Moffat (born 1924) UK, author of Space Below My Feet (1961)
Jerry Moffatt (born 1963) UK, sport climber and boulderer
Silvio Mondinelli (born 1968) Italy, 13th to climb all eight-thousanders (sixth without supplementary oxygen)
Ben Moon (born 1966) UK, sport climber, and boulderer, world's first
8c+ (5.14c) with
Hubble
A. W. Moore (1841–1887) UK, first ascent
Fiescherhorn ,
Barre des Écrins ,
Piz Roseg ,
Ober Gabelhorn
Tyrhee Moore US, member of the first all-African-American team to climb Denali
Fritz Moravec (1922–1997) Austria, first ascent
Gasherbrum II (1956)
Piotr Morawski (1976–2009) Poland, many 8000m summits, died on Dhaulagiri/Manasu expedition
Nea Morin (1905–1986) UK, rock climber and mountain climber
Simone Moro (born 1967) Italy, first winter ascents of
Shishapangma ,
Makalu ,
Gasherbrum II , and
Nanga Parbat
Don Morrison (1929–1977) UK, pioneer of
Alpine Style , first ascents in Canada, England, and Himalayas
Patrick Morrow (born 1952) Canada, first to complete both Bass and Messner Seven Summits lists (1986)
Tomáš Mrázek (born 1982) Czechoslovakia, rock climber, World Champion 2003, 2005, winner of World Cup 2004
John Muir (1838–1914) Scottish-born US conservationist and mountaineer, summits in
California and
Alaska
Norrie Muir (1948–2019) Scotland, prolific winter first ascentionist in Scotland
Albert F. Mummery (1855–1895) UK, Alpine and Himalayan pioneer, killed on
Nanga Parbat
Don Munday (1890–1950) Canada, mountaineer and explorer, husband of
Phyllis Munday , explored region around
Mount Waddington
Phyllis Munday (1894–1990) Canada, mountaineer and explorer, explored region around
Mount Waddington
Malli Mastan Babu (1974–2015) India, mountaineer and explorer, world record in completing seven summits in 172 days
N
Tenzing Norgay
Yasuko Namba (1949–1996) Japan, oldest woman at the time to climb Everest at 47 (1996), died on descent
Wasfia Nazreen (born 1982) Bangladesh, only Bengali person to climb K2 (2022) and first Bengali and Bangladeshi to finish the Seven Summits (2012).
Vitor Negrete (1967–2006) Brazil, first Brazilian to climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen
Hilaree Nelson (1972–2022) United States, first female to summit two 8000-meter peaks in one 24 hour push (2012). First ski descent Lhotse Couloir from the summit (2018); died on Manaslu
Fred Nicole Switzerland, numerous
first ascents of
sport routes and boulders
Eleonore Noll-Hasenclever (1880–1925) Germany, first woman to climb eastern wall of
Monte Rosa (1919); killed by avalanche on the
Bishorn
Jamling Tenzing Norgay (born 1965) Nepal, son of Tenzing Norgay, climbed Everest with Edmund Hillary's son,
Peter Hillary (2003)
Tenzing Norgay (1914–1986)
Sherpa , first ascent Everest (1953) with
Edmund Hillary
Edward F. Norton (1884–1954) leader of
1924 British Mount Everest Expedition with Mallory and Irvine
Sue Nott (1969–2006) US, ice climber and first American woman to climb the Eiger north face in winter (2003)
Wilfrid Noyce (1917–1962) UK, on Everest expedition (1953), reaching
South Col , killed in
Pamirs (1962)
Arne Næss (1912–2009) Norway, philosopher and mountaineer, leader of expedition on first ascent
Tirich Mir (1950)
Arne Næss jr. (1937–2004) Norway, leader, Norwegian Everest expedition (1985)
O
Juanito Oiarzabal
Adam Ondra
Vanessa O'Brien (born 1964) First British-American woman to summit
K2
Cathy O'Dowd (born 1968) South Africa, first female ascent of Everest from both north and south (1999), fourth female ascent
Lhotse (2000)
Oh Eun-Sun (born 1966) South Korea, first Korean woman to climb Seven Summits, controversy over eight-thousanders claim
[2]
Juanito Oiarzabal (born 1956) Basque (Spain), all
eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen, record 24 ascents of eight-thousanders
Clare O'Leary (born 1972) Ireland, first Irish woman to climb Mount Everest (2004)
Adam Ondra (born 1993) Czech Republic, first to redpoint a 9c
Dan Osman (1963–1998) US, rock climber, soloist, killed whilst attempting his new sport of rope jumping
James Outram (1864–1925) Canada, first ascent of
Mount Assiniboine
P
Michel-Gabriel Paccard
Paul Preuss
Michel-Gabriel Paccard (1757–1827) France, first ascent Mont Blanc (1786)
Bachendri Pal (born 1954) first Indian female ascent (and fifth female ascent) Everest
Tsewang Paljor (1968–1996) India, died on Everest in
1996 Mount Everest disaster
Ines Papert (born 1974) German ice climber, apinist and author
Marie Paradis (1757–1827) France, first female ascent Mont Blanc (1809)
Young-seok Park (1963–2011) South Korea, first true
Explorers Grand Slam (2005), died on Annapurna
Elizabeth Parker (1856–1944) Canada, journalist and mountaineer
Edurne Pasaban (born 1973) Basque, Spain, first woman to climb all eight-thousanders
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (1961–1993) first Nepali woman to summit Everest, died on descent (1993)
Tom Patey (1932–1970) UK, first ascent
Muztagh Tower (1956),
Am Buachaille (1968), killed in abseiling accident, author of One Man's Mountains
Krushnaa Patil (born 1989) India, second youngest Indian girl to climb Mount Everest
Maciej Pawlikowski (born 1951) Poland, first winter ascent of
Cho Oyu
Ryszard Pawłowski
Julius Payer (1841–1915) Czech-Austrian polar explorer who made many first ascents in the
Adamello and
Ortler mountains in the 1860s
Annie Smith Peck (1850–1935) US, mountaineer
William Penhall (1858–1882) UK, first ascent
Matterhorn west face
Carla Perez Ecuadorian climber, first Latin American female to ascend mount Everest with no supplemental oxygen
Jim Perrin (born 1947) UK, over 200 first/free ascents in Britain
Oliver Perry-Smith (1884–1969) US, a rock climber in
Saxon Switzerland and the
Dolomites
Petrarch (1304–1374) Italy, climbed
Mont Ventoux (1336)
Elfrida Pigou (1911–1960) Canadian female climber, discovered crash site of
Trans-Canada Air Lines Flight 810 , died on
Mount Waddington
Tadeusz Piotrowski mountaineer
Burçak Özoğlu Poçan (born 1970) Turkey, first Turkish female over 8,000 m (2005)
Klára Poláčková (born 1978) first Czech female to ascent Everest
Dean Potter (1972–2015) US, speed soloed El Cap in 4:17; speed soloed El Cap and Half Dome in one day
Paul Preuss (1886–1913) Austria, an early promoter of
free climbing , climbed 1200 peaks in his short life
Marko Prezelj ,
Slovenian mountaineer and winner of 4
Piolet d'Ors (1992, 2007, 2015, 2016)
Paul Pritchard (born 1967) UK, rock climber
Hristo Prodanov (1943–1984) Bulgaria, soloed
Lhotse (1981) and Everest (1984), died on the descent
Bonnie Prudden (1914–2011) pioneering US rock climber and exercise advocate, 30 documented first ascents in the
Gunks
Karl Prusik (1896–1961) Austria, introduced widely used
Prusik knot
Ramón Julián Puigblanque (born 1981) Spain, rock climber
Nirmal Purja (born 1982) Nepal, first to climb all fourteen 8000 meter mountains in one season (6 months, 6 days, with supplemental oxygen)
Ludwig Purtscheller (1849–1900) first ascent
Kilimanjaro (1889)
Piotr Pustelnik (born 1951) Poland, 20th person to climb all 14
eight thousanders
Boyan Petrov (born 1973) Bulgaria, climbed 10 out of 14
eight-thousanders , all without supplementary oxygen
R
Monique Richard
Wanda Rutkiewicz
Brooke Raboutou (born 2001) US, member of the 2020 American Olympic climbing team
Aron Ralston (born 1975) US, gained fame after amputating his right arm to free himself after a canyoneering incident
Paul Ramsden (born 1969), England, first-ever alpinist to win the
Piolet d'Or five times
Tom Randall UK, first free ascent of
Century Crack
5.14b (8c)
Lisa Rands (born 1975) US, rock climber and boulderer
Michael Reardon (1974–2007) US, prolific
free solo climber and film producer
Dave Rearick (born 1934) US, rock climber, first ascent of Diamond on
Longs Peak (1960)
Gaston Rébuffat (1921–1985) France,
1950 Annapurna expedition , first to climb all six
great north faces of the Alps , Alpine guide and author
Ernst Reiss (1920–2010) Swiss, first ascent of
Lhotse (1956)
Monique Richard (born 1975) Canada, first woman to solo climb
Mount Logan , first Canadian woman to summit Mt
Makalu ,
Seven Summits in 32 months
Dorothy Pilley Richards (1894–1986) UK, wrote Climbing Days (1935)
Katharine Richardson (1854–1927) UK, a mountaineer in the Alps in the 1880s
Mark Richey (born 1958) US, two-time winner of the
Piolet d'Or in 2012 and 2020
Rick Ridgeway (born 1950) US, member of the first American team to summit K2
[3]
Leni Riefenstahl (1902–2003) Germany, filmmaker, actress, and mountaineer
Ang Rita (1948–2020)
Sherpa , climbed Everest ten times without supplemental oxygen
Royal Robbins (1935–2017) US, rock climber, pioneer of modern
Yosemite climbing in the 1950s
Alain Robert (born 1962) France, climber and
builderer
David Roberts (1943–2021) US, author, first ascents of Wickersham Wall (
Mount McKinley ) and other Alaskan peaks
Paul Robinson (born 1987) US, rock climber and boulderer
André Roch (1906–2002) Switzerland, Everest 1952 attempt, many first ascents in Alps and Asia
Beth Rodden (born 1980) US, rock climber and first-ever female to match the highest male grades in traditional climbing with Meltdown
5.14d (9a)
Jordan Romero (born 1996) US, became the youngest person to climb Everest on May 22, 2010, aged 13 years, 10 months, 10 days
[4]
Steve Roper guidebook writer, editor of
Ascent , first ascent of West Buttress of El Capitan.
John Roskelley (born 1948) US, author, alpinist, Himalayan climber notable for technical first ascents of 7000 and 8000 m peaks
Fred Rouhling (born 1970) France, rock climber, notable for the world's fourth
9a (5.14d) rock climb (and first in France), and the controversy over Akira
Alan Rouse (1951–1986) UK, soloed many of hardest routes of day, died on descent from K2 (1986)
Galen Rowell (1940–2002) US, photographer and mountaineer, first one-day ascents of Denali and
Kilimanjaro , first ascent
Great Trango Tower
Henry Russell (1834–1909) France/Ireland, prolific first ascensionist in Pyrenees
Wanda Rutkiewicz (1943–1992) Poland, first woman on K2, 8,000m-peak veteran, died attempting
Kanchenjunga
S
John Salathé
Horace-Bénédict de Saussure
Ueli Steck
Gottlieb Samuel Studer
Nazir Sabir
Gilgit-Baltistan Pakistan, first Pakistani to climb Mount Everest
Hassan Sadpara (born 1963)
Gilgit-Baltistan Pakistan, starting as a high altitude porter, he climbed 5xPakistani 8000ers and Everest, without supplementary oxygen
Mostafa Salameh (born 1970) Jordan, first Jordanian to summit Everest, and Seven Summits
John Salathé (1900–1993) Switzerland/US, pioneering
Yosemite National Park , inventor of modern
piton
Horace-Bénédict de Saussure (1740–1799) France, third ascent Mont Blanc (1787), funded first ascent
Marcus Schmuck (1925–2005) Austria, first ascent
Broad Peak , first ascent
Skil Brum
Peter Schoening (1927–2004) US, first ascent
Gasherbrum I and
Vinson Massif , saved five climbers on K2 (1953)
[5]
Jakob Schubert (born 1990) Austria, one of the most successful
competition climbers in history
Doug Scott (1941–2020) UK, Seven Summits, first ascent Everest south-west face,
Baintha Brakk (descent with broken ankles), Kangchenjunga, Nuptse
Vittorio Sella (1859–1943) Italy, mountaineer and pioneer photographer
Nalini Sengupta India, educationist and mountaineer, namesake of Mount Nalini, originally peak 5260 in the
Himalayas , near the
Hamta Pass region of
Manali, Himachal Pradesh
Chris Sharma (born 1981) US, first to climb consensus
9a+ (5.15a) with
Realization/Biographie (2001), and
9b (5.15b) with
Jumbo Love (2008).
John Sherman (born 1959) US, inventor of "V" grading system
Apa Sherpa (born early 1960s) Nepal, record for most ascents of Everest (20 as of 2010)
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (1961–1993) Nepal, first Nepali woman to climb Everest, died during descent
Pemba Doma Sherpa (1970–2007) Nepal, first Nepali female mountaineer to climb Everest north face, died on Lhotse
Pemba Dorjie Sherpa Nepal, fastest ascent of Everest (2003)
Eric Shipton (1907–1977) UK, first ascent
Kamet , pioneered route across the Khumbu Glacier
Ashima Shiraishi (born 2001) US, first female to climb V15 (Horizon, Mount Hiei, Japan)
William Shockley (1910–1989) US,
Nobel Prize -winning
physicist , proponent of
eugenics , first ascent Shockleys Ceiling in the
Gunks (1953)
Joe Simpson (born 1960) UK, survived a fall on
Siula Grande , wrote
Touching the Void
Arunima Sinha India, first
Indian amputee to climb Everest
Todd Skinner (1958–2006) US, rock climber, first free ascent Salathe Wall, died on Leaning Tower
Cecilie Skog (born 1974) Norway, first female to climb Seven Summits and both Poles, Everest and K2
Laurie Skreslet (born 1949) Canada, first Canadian to summit Everest (1982)
William Cecil Slingsby (1849–1929) UK, first ascent
Store Skagastølstind (1876), pioneer of Norwegian mountaineering
Frank Smythe (1900–1949) UK, first ascent Kamet (1931) with
Shipton , R. Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa, reached 8565m on Everest in 1933 without supplementary oxygen
Dermot Somers Ireland, climber, author and broadcaster
Carlos Soria Fontán (born 1939) Spain, the only mountaineer to have ascended nine mountains of more than 8,000 meters after turning 60 years old
Jaahnavi Sriperambuduru (born 2001) India.
William Grant Stairs (1863–1892) Canada, first non-African to climb in the
Ruwenzoris
Allen Steck (1926–2023) US, mountaineer and rock climber
Ueli Steck (1976–2017) Switzerland, soloed Eiger north face in 2:22:50 hours (2015)
Leslie Stephen (1832–1904) UK, author and alpinist, first ascent
Schreckhorn ,
Monte Disgrazia ,
Zinalrothorn
Fritz Steuri (1879–1950) Switzerland, skier and mountain guide; first ascent of Mittellegigrat (northeast ridge of Eiger) (1921)
Edward Lisle Strutt (1874–1948) UK, deputy leader on 1922 Everest expedition, outspoken
Alpine Journal editor, 1927–37
Gottlieb Samuel Studer (1804–1890) Switzerland, first ascent
Wildhorn (1843), founding member of Swiss Alpine Club
Satyarup Siddhanta (born 1983) India, climbed Mont Blanc, climbed 6 of the 7 summits, climbed Mt Everest on 21 May 2016
T
Sheikha Asma Al Thani
Bill Tilman
Francis Fox Tuckett
Junko Tabei (1939–2016) Japan, first female ascent Everest; first completion of Bass and Messner's Seven Summits
Kei Taniguchi (1972–2015) Japan, first female winner of the
Piolet d'Or in 2009
Joe Tasker (1948–1982) UK,
Dunagiri ,
Kanchenjunga , Changabang West Wall; died on Everest (May 1982)
Asma Al Thani first Qatari woman to ascend Everest and Ama Dablam; first Arab to summit an eight-thousander without oxygen
Vernon Tejas (born 1953) US, first solo winter ascent
Denali ,
Seven Summits time world record
Lionel Terray (1921–1965) France, first ascents
Fitz Roy ,
Chakrarahu ,
Jannu and
Makalu on the
1955 French Makalu expedition ; second ascent Eiger north face (1947)
Vladislav Terzyul (1953–2004) Ukraine, disputed claim to have climbed all eight-thousanders
Kevin Thaw (born 1967) UK, ascents in Himalayas and
Yosemite
Herbert Tichy (1912–1987) Austrian, first ascent
Cho Oyu (1954)
Bill Tilman (1898–1977) UK, explorer, climbed in Africa and Himalaya,
first ascent Nanda Devi (1936)
Luis Trenker (1892–1990) Italy, mountaineer, film director and writer
Sonnie Trotter (born 1979) Canada, award-winning climber, known for hard trad climbing
Francis Fox Tuckett (1834–1913) UK, first ascent
Aletschhorn (1859)
Julie Tullis (1939–1986) UK,
Broad Peak (1984) and K2 (1986); died on descent from K2
Mark Twight (born 1962) US, advocate of "light and fast" style of mountaineering
John Tyndall (1820–1893) UK, early attempts on
Matterhorn , first ascent
Weisshorn (1861)
U
Karl Unterkircher
Naomi Uemura (1941–1984) Japan, first solo winter ascent
Mount McKinley , on which he died
James Ramsey Ullman (1908–1971) US, author and mountaineer
Ugur Uluocak (1962–2003) Turkey, mountaineer, photographer and editor, died on
Mount Alarcha in
Kyrgyzstan
Um Hong-Gil (born 1960) South Korea, 9th person to climb all eight-thousanders, first to climb 16 highest peaks
Willi Unsoeld (1926–1979) US, first ascent Everest west ridge (1963), died on
Mount Rainier (1979)
Karl Unterkircher (1970–2008) Italy, Everest and K2 in the same year without oxygen, died on
Nanga Parbat
Denis Urubko (born 1973)
Kazakhstan , 14x8000er; first winter ascents of
Makalu and
Gasherbrum II ,
Snow Leopard award winner
V
Anak Verhoeven
Arjun Vajpai (born 1993) India, climbed Everest 2010,
Lhotse 2011 and
Manaslu 2011
Ivan Vallejo (born 1959) Ecuador, 14th person to climb all eight-thousanders (7th without supplemental oxygen)
Patrick Vallençant (1946–1989) France, alpinist/skier and ski mountaineering pioneer
Anak Verhoeven (born 1996) Belgium, first woman to claim a first ascent of a 5.15a
Allison Vest (born 1995) Canada, two-time Canadian Bouldering Nationals champion
Ed Viesturs (born 1959) US, first US climber to climb all eight-thousander (6th without supplemental oxygen)
Sibusiso Vilane (born 1970) South Africa, first black African to summit Everest (2003)
Ludwig Vörg (1911–1941) Germany, first ascent Eiger north face (1938)
W
Edward Whymper
Krzysztof Wielicki
Horace Walker (1838–1908) UK, first ascent
Mount Elbrus ,
Grandes Jorasses ,
Barre des Ecrins ,
Obergabelhorn
Lucy Walker (1836–1916) UK, first female ascent
Matterhorn (1871)
Barbara Washburn US, first ascent
Mount Bertha , first female ascent Denali (1947)
Bradford Washburn (1910–2007) US, third ascent Denali, pioneered west buttress route
Ryan Waters (born 1973) US, first American to complete the Adventurers Grand Slam with unsupported north and south poles
Don Whillans (1933–1985) UK, first ascent
Annapurna south face (1970)
Rick White (1946–2004) Australia, rock climber, developed
Frog Buttress (1968)
Jim Whittaker (born 1929) US, first US ascent Everest (1963)
Lou Whittaker (1929–2024) US, Rainier guide
Pete Whittaker (born 1991) UK, first free ascent of
Century Crack
5.14b (8c)
Edward Whymper (1840–1911) UK, first ascent
Matterhorn (1865), first ascent
Chimborazo (1880)
Jim Wickwire (born 1940) US, K2 (1978) (bivouacked near summit)
Krzysztof Wielicki (born 1950) Poland, first winter ascent Everest; fifth person to climb all eight-thousanders
Karl Wien (1906–1937) Germany, leader of unsuccessful
Nanga Parbat expedition (1937)
Fritz Wiessner (1900–1988) US, born
Dresden , emigrated to US; pioneer of
free climbing ; K2 expedition (1939)
Sydney Wignall (1922–2012) UK, Climbed
Gurla Mandhata in 1955
Walter Wilcox (1869–1949)
Canadian Rockies explorer
Martyn S. Williams mountain and wilderness guide who is the first person in the world to lead expeditions to the three extremes, South Pole (1989) North Pole (1992) and Everest (1991)
George Willig (born 1949) US, climbed South Tower of
World Trade Center
Fritz Wintersteller (1927–2018) Austria, first ascent
Broad Peak (1957) and
Skil Brum (1957)
Ian Woodall (born 1956) UK, climbed Everest several times
Daniel Woods (born 1989) American climber who specializes in bouldering, ascended the world's hardest boulder problem, Flash (V15) in 2011
Fanny Bullock Workman (1859–1925) US, geographer, cartographer, and mountaineer, notably in the Himalayas
Y
Santosh Yadav (born 1969) India,
Indo-Tibetan Border Police woman, climbed Everest twice (1992 and 1993)
Simon Yates (born 1963) UK,
Joe Simpson 's partner on west face of
Siula Grande (1985), subject of
Touching the Void
Michael J. Ybarra (1966–2012) US, climber and writer, extreme sports correspondent for
The Wall Street Journal 2007–2012
Wang Yongfeng (born 1963) China, first Chinese couple to climb Seven Summits (with
Li Zhixin )
Ichiro Yoshizawa (1903–1998) Japan, climber and writer; K2 (1977)
[6]
Geoffrey Winthrop Young (1876–1958) UK, first ascent
Täschhorn south face,
Weisshorn west ridge,
Grandes Jorasses traverse
Z
Andrzej Zawada
Andrzej Zawada (1928–2000) Poland, pioneer of winter Himalayism
Li Zhixin (born 1962) China, half of first Chinese couple to climb the Seven Summits with
Wang Yongfeng
Emil Zsigmondy (1861–1885) Austria, physician and mountain climber; died trying to force new route on the
Meije
Jerzy Żuławski (1874–1915) Polish literary figure, philosopher, translator and alpinist
Juliusz Żuławski (1910–1999) Polish poet, prose writer, literary critic, translator and climber; son of Jerzy Żuławski
Marek Żuławski (1908–1985) Polish painter, graphic artist, author and climber; son of Jerzy Żuławski
Wawrzyniec Żuławski (1916–1957) Polish composer, music critic and teacher; died during Mont Blanc rescue mission; son of
Jerzy Żuławski
Matthias Zurbriggen (1856–1917) Switzerland, first ascent
Aconcagua (1897)
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