Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal Urteaga (born 30 March 1956), commonly known as Juanito Oiarzabal, is a noted
SpanishBasquemountaineer. He has written four books on the subject. He was the 6th man to reach all 14
eight-thousander summits,[2] and the third to do so without supplemental oxygen. He was the first person to conquer the top three summits twice (
Everest +
K2 +
Kangchenjunga) and the oldest climber to summit Kangchenjunga, at almost 53, until
Carlos Fontan did so in 2014, at 75 years old.[3]
In 2004, he lost all his toes to frostbite after summiting
K2.[4]
In 2009, he announced wanting to become the first person in history to reach a "double 14", summiting each 8000er twice.[2] In April 2010 he reached 24 eight-thousanders, after climbing
Annapurna, a world record.[5] In 2011 he climbed Lhotse for a second time, which was his 25th eight-thousander.[6] He is second all-time for 8000er ascents behind Nepali climber
Phurba Tashi Sherpa, who has 30.[6]
The Himalayas
His success in the
Himalayas is well-known, but less well known is that before starting on those ascents he had already accumulated a curriculum which is among the best of
Spain. He undertook ascents on all the Spanish mountain masses, on the hardest routes. He even discovered some routes of great relevance. He is highly experienced in climbing the
Alps, undertaking climbs for the technical challenges they presented. In other continents, he has climbed in
North America,
South America and
Africa and returning to the Himalayas, it is here that he carries out his expeditions with the greatest ease, which may seem obvious after 35 expeditions over 23 years.
Mountaineering curriculum
Alaska
1984 –
Denali ( known also as McKinley) (6,194 m or 20,322 ft) – West Buttress Route.
Argentina
1983 – Aconcagua (6,957 m or 22,825 ft) – 5th world winter ascent (he has accredited 16 ascents to the Aconcagua, as a "guide").
Kenya
1988 – Mount Kenya – Diamond Corridor.
Nepal
1982 – Kangchuntse (Makalu II) (7,640 m or 25,070 ft). Altitude reached: 7,200 m (23,600 ft).
1988 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). North side. Altitude reached: 8,000 m (26,000 ft).
1989 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft). West Pillar. Altitude reached: 8,350 m (27,400 ft).
1990 – Everest (8,848 m or 29,029 ft). Southwest side. Altitude reached: 8,300 m (27,200 ft).
1991 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). North side. Altitude reached: 8,400 m (27,600 ft).
1993 – Everest (8,848 m or 29,029 ft). South-Southeast Route - crest. Summit.
1995 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft).
Normal route. Summit.
1995 – Lhotse (8,516 m or 27,940 ft). Normal Route. Summit.
1996 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). North side. British route. Summit.
1997 – Manaslu (8,163 m or 26,781 ft). Normal route. Summit.
1998 – Dhaulagiri (8,167 m or 26,795 ft). Normal route. Summit.
1999 – Annapurna (8,091 m or 26,545 ft). German route. Summit.
2002 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft). West pillar. Altitude reached: 7,600 m (24,900 ft).
2004 – Ama Dablam (6,856 m or 22,493 ft). Southwestern sharp edge. Summit.
2008 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft). Normal route. Summit.
2009 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). Normal route. Summit.
2010 – Annapurna (8,091 m or 26,545 ft). Summit (helicopter used on descent).
Golden Insignia from the Basque Mountaineering Federation.
Member of the "Comité de Patronage du Cinquantenaire de l'Annapurna" in 2000.
Member of Honor of the Spanish Geography Society.
Nominated for the "Prince of Asturias" Award for Sports in 1999.
Finalist for the "Prince of Asturias" Award for Sports in 2001.
According to the Mundo Deportivo newspaper, he is among the 20 most important Spanish sportsmen of the century.
Golden Medal for Sports Merit, awarded by the Spanish government in 1999.
On the proposal of the editors of Basque jeans of communication, the
Basque Government awarded him the distinction of Universal Basque Citizen in the year 2000. That year the
Jesuit, Ion Sobrino (standard-bearer of the freedom theology in El Salvador), also won the award, which had previously been won by Etxenike,
Oteiza and
Chillida.
Member of Honour of the Spanish Exploration and Adventure Cub.
The sports newspaper Marca awarded him its maximum prize: Marca de Leyenda (Legendary Mark), a distinction that only a handful of elite sportsmen around the world have.
In recognition of his sports achievements, he has been officially received by outstanding officials and personalities: The Vitoria-Gasteiz City Council, Diputación Foral de Álava, the
Lehendakari (Basque President), the former Spanish prime Minister (
José María Aznar) and the King of Spain,
Juan Carlos de Borbón.
He was Guest of Honor at the activities organised by the French Government on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the conquering of
Annapurna, invited by its President
Jacques Chirac. He was also a member of the activities Committee.
In 2005 he was awarded the FCG International Award for Sports by the Fundación Cristóbal Gabarrón.[8]
Books
Juanito Oiarzabal has published four books:
Buscando las catorce estrellas [Searching for the Fourteen Stars] (in Spanish). Editorial Lur. 1997.
Los 14 ochomiles de Juanito Oiarzabal [The Fourteen Eight-Thousanders of Juanito Oiarzabal] (in Spanish). Ediciones Desnivel. 1999.
Conversaciones con Juanito Oiarzabal [Conversations with Juanito Oiarzabal] (in Spanish). Ediciones Desnivel. 2001.
El Everest de Juanito Oiarzabal [Juanito Oiarzabal's Everest] (in Spanish). Ediciones Desnivel. 2002.
Audiovisual productions
He has undertaken 16 audiovisual productions that have been used to promote mountaineering, offering prestige to this sport at all levels and setting a high standard for both Vitoria-Gasteiz and Alava.
On
TVE, he filmed his ascent of Annapurna for the Al filo de lo imposible (On the Edge of the Impossible) television program.
He has also recorded many programs, such as the one he did on Everest, recreating the story of Mallory and Irvine who disappeared in 1924 while they tried to reach the summit.
On the public
Basque broadcasting corporation's ETB2 TV channel, he has featured as team leader in several instalments of The conqueror of the world's end, an adventure reality show located in Patagonia (Argentina).
Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal Urteaga (born 30 March 1956), commonly known as Juanito Oiarzabal, is a noted
SpanishBasquemountaineer. He has written four books on the subject. He was the 6th man to reach all 14
eight-thousander summits,[2] and the third to do so without supplemental oxygen. He was the first person to conquer the top three summits twice (
Everest +
K2 +
Kangchenjunga) and the oldest climber to summit Kangchenjunga, at almost 53, until
Carlos Fontan did so in 2014, at 75 years old.[3]
In 2004, he lost all his toes to frostbite after summiting
K2.[4]
In 2009, he announced wanting to become the first person in history to reach a "double 14", summiting each 8000er twice.[2] In April 2010 he reached 24 eight-thousanders, after climbing
Annapurna, a world record.[5] In 2011 he climbed Lhotse for a second time, which was his 25th eight-thousander.[6] He is second all-time for 8000er ascents behind Nepali climber
Phurba Tashi Sherpa, who has 30.[6]
The Himalayas
His success in the
Himalayas is well-known, but less well known is that before starting on those ascents he had already accumulated a curriculum which is among the best of
Spain. He undertook ascents on all the Spanish mountain masses, on the hardest routes. He even discovered some routes of great relevance. He is highly experienced in climbing the
Alps, undertaking climbs for the technical challenges they presented. In other continents, he has climbed in
North America,
South America and
Africa and returning to the Himalayas, it is here that he carries out his expeditions with the greatest ease, which may seem obvious after 35 expeditions over 23 years.
Mountaineering curriculum
Alaska
1984 –
Denali ( known also as McKinley) (6,194 m or 20,322 ft) – West Buttress Route.
Argentina
1983 – Aconcagua (6,957 m or 22,825 ft) – 5th world winter ascent (he has accredited 16 ascents to the Aconcagua, as a "guide").
Kenya
1988 – Mount Kenya – Diamond Corridor.
Nepal
1982 – Kangchuntse (Makalu II) (7,640 m or 25,070 ft). Altitude reached: 7,200 m (23,600 ft).
1988 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). North side. Altitude reached: 8,000 m (26,000 ft).
1989 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft). West Pillar. Altitude reached: 8,350 m (27,400 ft).
1990 – Everest (8,848 m or 29,029 ft). Southwest side. Altitude reached: 8,300 m (27,200 ft).
1991 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). North side. Altitude reached: 8,400 m (27,600 ft).
1993 – Everest (8,848 m or 29,029 ft). South-Southeast Route - crest. Summit.
1995 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft).
Normal route. Summit.
1995 – Lhotse (8,516 m or 27,940 ft). Normal Route. Summit.
1996 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). North side. British route. Summit.
1997 – Manaslu (8,163 m or 26,781 ft). Normal route. Summit.
1998 – Dhaulagiri (8,167 m or 26,795 ft). Normal route. Summit.
1999 – Annapurna (8,091 m or 26,545 ft). German route. Summit.
2002 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft). West pillar. Altitude reached: 7,600 m (24,900 ft).
2004 – Ama Dablam (6,856 m or 22,493 ft). Southwestern sharp edge. Summit.
2008 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft). Normal route. Summit.
2009 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). Normal route. Summit.
2010 – Annapurna (8,091 m or 26,545 ft). Summit (helicopter used on descent).
Golden Insignia from the Basque Mountaineering Federation.
Member of the "Comité de Patronage du Cinquantenaire de l'Annapurna" in 2000.
Member of Honor of the Spanish Geography Society.
Nominated for the "Prince of Asturias" Award for Sports in 1999.
Finalist for the "Prince of Asturias" Award for Sports in 2001.
According to the Mundo Deportivo newspaper, he is among the 20 most important Spanish sportsmen of the century.
Golden Medal for Sports Merit, awarded by the Spanish government in 1999.
On the proposal of the editors of Basque jeans of communication, the
Basque Government awarded him the distinction of Universal Basque Citizen in the year 2000. That year the
Jesuit, Ion Sobrino (standard-bearer of the freedom theology in El Salvador), also won the award, which had previously been won by Etxenike,
Oteiza and
Chillida.
Member of Honour of the Spanish Exploration and Adventure Cub.
The sports newspaper Marca awarded him its maximum prize: Marca de Leyenda (Legendary Mark), a distinction that only a handful of elite sportsmen around the world have.
In recognition of his sports achievements, he has been officially received by outstanding officials and personalities: The Vitoria-Gasteiz City Council, Diputación Foral de Álava, the
Lehendakari (Basque President), the former Spanish prime Minister (
José María Aznar) and the King of Spain,
Juan Carlos de Borbón.
He was Guest of Honor at the activities organised by the French Government on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the conquering of
Annapurna, invited by its President
Jacques Chirac. He was also a member of the activities Committee.
In 2005 he was awarded the FCG International Award for Sports by the Fundación Cristóbal Gabarrón.[8]
Books
Juanito Oiarzabal has published four books:
Buscando las catorce estrellas [Searching for the Fourteen Stars] (in Spanish). Editorial Lur. 1997.
Los 14 ochomiles de Juanito Oiarzabal [The Fourteen Eight-Thousanders of Juanito Oiarzabal] (in Spanish). Ediciones Desnivel. 1999.
Conversaciones con Juanito Oiarzabal [Conversations with Juanito Oiarzabal] (in Spanish). Ediciones Desnivel. 2001.
El Everest de Juanito Oiarzabal [Juanito Oiarzabal's Everest] (in Spanish). Ediciones Desnivel. 2002.
Audiovisual productions
He has undertaken 16 audiovisual productions that have been used to promote mountaineering, offering prestige to this sport at all levels and setting a high standard for both Vitoria-Gasteiz and Alava.
On
TVE, he filmed his ascent of Annapurna for the Al filo de lo imposible (On the Edge of the Impossible) television program.
He has also recorded many programs, such as the one he did on Everest, recreating the story of Mallory and Irvine who disappeared in 1924 while they tried to reach the summit.
On the public
Basque broadcasting corporation's ETB2 TV channel, he has featured as team leader in several instalments of The conqueror of the world's end, an adventure reality show located in Patagonia (Argentina).