U cumbitu 'i San Giuseppi ( lit. 'Saint Joseph's banquet'), also known as u mmitu 'e San Giuseppe, ^{[1] [2]} or u banquettu around Catanzaro, ^[3] is a custom in the Calabria region, southern Italy, in which lagane e ceci, ^{[4] [5]} a pasta dish containing chickpeas, ^{[6] [7]} is shared among families and neighbours on Saint Joseph's Day (19 March). ^[6]

History

U cumbitu may have emerged in the 20th century, ^[6] or have origins in Calabria's medieval feudal society. ^{[2] [7]} On Saint Joseph's Day, rich families invited poorer people from their neighbourhood for a feast at their house. ^[3] Some of the guests would dress as the Holy Family, ^{[3] [4]} sometimes extended to include Joachim and Anne, Mary's parents. ^[3] The hostess would kiss guests' hands in an act of reverence. ^[8] Lagane e ceci was served as the first dish, ^[6] followed by pan-fried cod and zeppole, ^[3] the dessert typically associated with Saint Joseph in Calabria. ^[9] The meal would take place in silence. ^[8] After the meal, guests would be given leftovers to take home to their relatives. ^{[3] [8]}

Alternatively, beggars would walk the streets with a pan in their hands, clinking their spoons against the pan to warn almsgivers that they were arriving. ^[6] Reaching the house of someone reasonably well-off, they would hide their faces and receive a vuccata 'i San Giuseppi ( transl. Saint Joseph's morsel), ^[3] consisting of the pasta, cod, ^{[3] [4]} and sometimes dried figs. ^[3] Around Crotone, it was also common to donate loaves of bread to passers-by. ^[10]

U cumbitu notably suspended class structures in Calabria, which was particularly afflicted by poverty and hunger, ^[3] and was a symbol of social solidarity and fraternity. ^{[4] [10]}

Contemporary celebrations

Today,^{[ when?]} parishes and neighbourhoods in Calabria organise u cumbitu get-togethers, in which families exchange food that is blessed by the parish priest. ^{[1] [6]} Elsewhere, families bring the dish to their neighbours, friends, and relatives. The custom is popular among Calabrian emigrant communities, ^[6] such as in Cinisello Balsamo, Lombardy, ^{[6] [11]} where a Calabrian cultural association has organised an annual u cumbitu since the 2010s. ^[6] While the pasta was traditionally cooked in terracotta pignatta pots by a fireplace, ^[8] or prepared in pots in village alleys and squares, ^{[2] [9]} from which anyone could help themselves to a portion, ^{[2] [10]} the pasta is now typically cooked on gas stoves. ^[8]

Preparation

Before u cumbitu, figs, zucchini, and peppers are sun-dried. Closer to Saint Joseph's Day, bread is prepared in a wood-fired oven, and chicory and fennel are harvested, while scarola and cabbages are picked. ^[8] Cod and dried chickpeas are soaked together overnight before the feast. ^{[8] [7]}

The pasta traditionally used for the meal is lagane e ceci. ^{[4] [5]} On the day of the meal, ^[7] the pasta is rolled out, dried, ^[2] then rolled up on itself and cut into strips. ^{[2] [7]} The pasta is cooked for two to three minutes, then mixed with the chickpeas. ^[7] The meal is served with bread and wine. ^[8] Other dishes associated with u cumbitu include bean, lentil, chickpea, or Indian pea soup. ^[8]

References