![]() Hong in 2019 | |
Personal information | |
---|---|
Born | [1] Boulder, Colorado, United States | 4 September 1991
Education | University of Colorado Boulder |
Occupation(s) | Rock climber, film director, photographer |
Climbing career | |
Highest grade | |
Known for | Becoming the fourth American climber to send a 5.15b (9b) route |
Matthew Jacob Hong (born September 4, 1991) is an American rock climber, filmmaker and photographer. In 2018, he became the fourth American to climb a route graded at 5.15b (9b). [2] As a filmmaker, he directed the 2017 film Break on Through, which documented Margo Hayes completing the first-ever female ascent of a 9a+ (5.15a) graded sport climbing route, and is featured on the Reel Rock Film Tour. [3]
Hong was born in Boulder, Colorado in 1991. He began climbing at an early age, brought to climbing spots in Rifle Canyon as a baby by his father Steve Hong and mother Karin Budding, who were both pioneering rock climbers. [4] He joined a climbing team in middle school and began climbing more seriously at age 15, when he climbed his first 5.13d (8b) and 5.14a (8b+) routes in Rifle. [5]
After earning a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Film Production at the University of Colorado Boulder, [6] Hong climbed his first 5.15a (9a+) route, Papichulo 5.15a (9a+) in Oliana, Spain, in March 2016. [5]
In 2011, Hong recorded the first ascent of Bad Girls Club in Rifle [7] and in 2015, he bolted and completed his first route, La Cucaracha in Wicked Cave, also in Rifle. [8]
In May 2018, he climbed the 5.15b (9b) Fight or Flight in Oliana, Spain, becoming the fourth American to climb the grade [2] after Chris Sharma, Ethan Pringle and Daniel Woods. [9]
In October 2021, Hong completed the second-ever ascent of Flex Luthor, first sent by Tommy Caldwell in 2003. Hong suggested the grade be revised to 5.15b (9b) from 5.15a (9a+) after multiple holds broke making the climb harder. [10] [11] In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the third repeat of Flex Luthor and downgraded it back to 5.15a (9a+). [12]
In May 2023, Hong made the 20th ascent of Sharma's 2001 route, Realization/Biographie 9a+ (5.15a), in Ceuse. [13]
Hong competed at IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in 2009 and 2010 in the Male Youth Junior (age 17–19) category. [14] He has also competed in the senior climbing circuit, making the final at the 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup event in Boulder, finishing sixth. [15]
![]() Hong in 2019 | |
Personal information | |
---|---|
Born | [1] Boulder, Colorado, United States | 4 September 1991
Education | University of Colorado Boulder |
Occupation(s) | Rock climber, film director, photographer |
Climbing career | |
Highest grade | |
Known for | Becoming the fourth American climber to send a 5.15b (9b) route |
Matthew Jacob Hong (born September 4, 1991) is an American rock climber, filmmaker and photographer. In 2018, he became the fourth American to climb a route graded at 5.15b (9b). [2] As a filmmaker, he directed the 2017 film Break on Through, which documented Margo Hayes completing the first-ever female ascent of a 9a+ (5.15a) graded sport climbing route, and is featured on the Reel Rock Film Tour. [3]
Hong was born in Boulder, Colorado in 1991. He began climbing at an early age, brought to climbing spots in Rifle Canyon as a baby by his father Steve Hong and mother Karin Budding, who were both pioneering rock climbers. [4] He joined a climbing team in middle school and began climbing more seriously at age 15, when he climbed his first 5.13d (8b) and 5.14a (8b+) routes in Rifle. [5]
After earning a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Film Production at the University of Colorado Boulder, [6] Hong climbed his first 5.15a (9a+) route, Papichulo 5.15a (9a+) in Oliana, Spain, in March 2016. [5]
In 2011, Hong recorded the first ascent of Bad Girls Club in Rifle [7] and in 2015, he bolted and completed his first route, La Cucaracha in Wicked Cave, also in Rifle. [8]
In May 2018, he climbed the 5.15b (9b) Fight or Flight in Oliana, Spain, becoming the fourth American to climb the grade [2] after Chris Sharma, Ethan Pringle and Daniel Woods. [9]
In October 2021, Hong completed the second-ever ascent of Flex Luthor, first sent by Tommy Caldwell in 2003. Hong suggested the grade be revised to 5.15b (9b) from 5.15a (9a+) after multiple holds broke making the climb harder. [10] [11] In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the third repeat of Flex Luthor and downgraded it back to 5.15a (9a+). [12]
In May 2023, Hong made the 20th ascent of Sharma's 2001 route, Realization/Biographie 9a+ (5.15a), in Ceuse. [13]
Hong competed at IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in 2009 and 2010 in the Male Youth Junior (age 17–19) category. [14] He has also competed in the senior climbing circuit, making the final at the 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup event in Boulder, finishing sixth. [15]