Terms used in sewing, tailoring and related crafts.
This glossary contains terms used in sewing, tailoring and related crafts. For terms used in the creation or manufacturing of textiles, including spinning, knitting, weaving, and individual fabrics and finishing processes, see
Glossary of textile manufacturing. For terms used in dyeing, see
Glossary of dyeing terms.
To
baste is to join fabric together with long removable stitches.
bias
The
bias direction of a piece of
wovenfabric, usually referred to simply as "the bias", is at 45 degrees to its
warp and
weft threads. Every piece of woven fabric has two biases,
perpendicular to each other. Non-woven fabrics such as felt or
interfacing do not have a bias.
bias tape
Bias tape or bias binding is a narrow strip of fabric, cut on the bias. The strip's fibers, being at 45 degrees to the length of the strip, makes it stretchier as well as more fluid and more drapeable compared to a strip that is cut on grain. Many strips can be pieced together into a long "tape." The tape's width varies from about 1/2" to about 3" (10mm to 75mm) depending on applications. Bias tape is used in making
piping, binding seams, finishing raw edges, etc. It is often used on the edges of
quilts, placemats, and bibs, around armhole and neckline edges instead of a facing, and as a simple strap or tie for casual bags or clothing. While bias tape can be handmade, it is also available in pre-packaged lengths (although usually only in basic colors).
binding
Binding is used as both a noun and a verb to refer to finishing a seam, edge or
hem of a garment, usually by rolling or pressing then stitching on an edging or trim.
A
dart is a common technique used for shaping garments. Darts are created by stitching out a wedge-shaped fold of fabric. They vary in width and length and can be tapered at one or both ends. They frequently appear around the bust and waist.
darning
1.
Darning is a technique for repairing holes or worn areas in
fabric or
knitting using
needle and
thread. It is often done by hand, but it is also possible to darn with a
sewing machine. Hand darning employs the darning stitch, a simple
running stitch in which the thread is "woven" in rows along the grain of the fabric, with the stitcher reversing direction at the end of each row, and then filling in the framework thus created, as if weaving.
2. Darning also refers to any of several needlework techniques that are worked using darning stitches, including pattern darning (a type of embroidery), net darning or filet lace, and needle weaving, a
drawn thread work technique.[1]
darning mushroom
A
darning mushroom is a tool used for
darning clothes, particularly
socks. The sock can be stretched over the "cap" mushroom, and gathered tightly around the stalk to provide taut surface for darning.
2.
Dressmaker as an
adjective denotes clothing made in the
style of a dressmaker, frequently in the term dressmaker details which includes
ruffles,
frills,
ribbon or
braidtrim. Dressmaker in this sense is contrasted to tailored and has fallen out of use since the rise of
casual wear in the mid-twentieth century.
drop shoulder
A shoulder seam which extends past the actual shoulder point.[2]
Eyelet may refer to a
metal,
plastic, or
rubber ring that is inserted into a hole made through another material; in this case it is synonymous with
grommet. They may be used to reinforce the hole, to shield something from the sharp edges of the hole, or both. An eyelet may also be the hole itself, held open with stitches.
The "front" of a piece of fabric having a distinct front and back; same as right side.
facing
A facing is fabric used to finish the raw edges of a garment such as at neckline and armhole. Shaped facings are cut to match the edge they will face, and bias facings are strips of fabric cut on the bias or cross-grain and shaped to fit edge.[3][full citation needed]
fusible interfacing
Commonly referred to as simply "Fusible" it is an
interfacing fabric with glue on one or both sides that is ironed onto either a lining, facing or body fabric to provide structure.
Gathering is a technique for shortening the length of a strip of
fabric so that the longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece. It is commonly used in
clothing to manage fullness, as when a full
sleeve is attached to the armscye or cuff of a
shirt, or when a
skirt is attached to a
bodice.
In simple gathering,
parallel rows of
running stitches are sewn along one edge of the fabric to be gathered. The stitching threads are then pulled or "drawn up" so that the fabric forms small folds along the threads. Multiple rows of gathering are called shirring.[4][5]
A
gore is a shaped segment, narrow at the top and wider at the base, extending from the waistline to the hem of a skirt. Flared skirts can be made of 2 or more gores.[8] Four-. six-. and eight-gore skirts are common.
grain
1. The lengthwise and crosswise grain of
fabric refer to the directions parallel to the
warp and
weft, respectively.
2. With the grain indicates parallel to the threads of a woven fabric, lengthwise or crosswise.
3. Dyed in the grain refers to
dyeing with
kermes, a red insect dye.[9]
gusset
A
gusset is a triangular or square piece of
fabric inserted into a seam to add breadth or reduce stress from tight-fitting clothing. Gussets were used at the shoulders, underarms, and hems of traditional
shirts and
chemises made of rectangular lengths of
linen to shape the garments to the body.[10]
Drapery header tape is a stiff fabric band sewn along the top edge of a
curtain to provide stiffness and stability to the fabric so that it does not sag.[13] To simplify the task of gathering pleats across the panel, the tape can be made with pleat pockets.[14] It can also be used to conceal
drapery hooks.[15][16] It is sometimes used in conjunction with gathering tape, and can be sheer to help stiffen delicate fabric.[16][17]
hem
1. To
hem a piece of cloth (in
sewing), a garment worker folds up a cut edge, folds it up again, and then sews it down. The process of hemming thus completely encloses the cut edge in cloth, so that it cannot ravel.
2. A hem is also the edge of cloth hemmed in this manner.
Interfacing is a common term for a variety of
materials used on the unseen or "wrong" side of
fabrics in
sewing. Interfacings support the fashion fabric ("shell fabric") of the garment and may be selected to change the hang of the fabric in some portions of the garment; for instance, a shirt collar has an interior stiffening from interfacing.
1.
Lining is an inner layer of fabric, fur, or other material that provides a neat finish; conceals seam allowances, interfacing, and construction details; and allows a garment to slip on and off easily.[18][19]
Pad stitching is used to secure two pieces of fabric together with perpendicular stitches. Pad stitching is mainly used for lapels and collars to maintain their shape.
pattern
In
sewing and
fashion design, a
pattern is an original
garment from which other garments of a similar style are copied, or the paper or cardboard
templates from which the parts of a garment are traced onto
fabric before cutting out and assembling (sometimes called paper patterns).
Home sewing patterns are generally printed on
tissue paper and sold in packets containing sewing instructions and suggestions for fabric and
trim.
piping
Piping is a type of
trim or embellishment consisting of a strip of folded
fabric inserted into a seam to define the edges or
style lines of a
garment or other textile object. Usually the fabric strip is cut on the
bias or cross-grain, and often it is folded over a cord. It may be made from either self-fabric (the same fabric as the object to be ornamented) or contrasting fabric, or of leather.[20]
placket
1. A
placket is an opening in the upper part of
trousers or
skirts, or at the neck or
sleeve of a garment Plackets allow clothing to be put on or removed easily.[21]
3. A slit to allow access to a hanging
pocket, or a
petticoat or skirt pocket.[21]
pleat
A
pleat (older plait) is a type of
fold formed by doubling
fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in
clothing and
upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference.[22]
Pleats are categorized as pressed, that is,
ironed or otherwise heat-set into a sharp crease, or unpressed, falling in soft rounded folds. Pleats may also be partially sewn flat and allowed to fall open below.
pocket
A
pocket is a bag- or envelope-like receptacle either fastened to or inserted in an article of
clothing to hold small items. In older usage, a pocket was a separate small bag or pouch.[23]
The "front" of a piece of fabric having a distinct front and back; same as face. Sometimes called the "public" side.
ruching
A gathered overlay. The fabric is gathered on two parallel sides and stitched to an underlay, creating a shelf effect. It is often done in sheers, like chiffon
running stitch
A
running stitch is an embroidery stitch that passes in and out of the fabric in a straight line. This stitch can be used to
baste fabric pieces together.
A
seam or seamline in
sewing is the line where two pieces of
fabric are held together by
thread.
seam allowance
A
seam allowance is the area between the edge of fabric and the stitching line on two (or more) pieces of material being stitched together. Seam allowances can range from 1/4 inch wide (6.35 mm) to as much as several inches. Commercial patterns for home sewers have seam allowances ranging from 1/4 inch to 5/8 inch.
The
selvage (US English) or selvedge (British English) is the term for the self-finished edges of
fabric. In
woven fabric, selvages are the edges that run parallel to the
warp, and are created by the
weft thread looping back at the end of each row. The selvage of commercially produced fabrics is often cut away and discarded.[24] Historically, garments were frequently constructed of full loom-widths of fabric joined selvage-to-selvage to avoid waste.
In
knitted fabrics,
selvages are the unfinished yet structurally sound edges that were neither
cast on nor
bound off.[25]
Sewing is an ancient craft involving the stitching of
cloth,
leather, animal skins,
furs, or other materials, using
needle and
thread. Its use is nearly universal among human populations and dates back to
Paleolithic times (30,000 BC). Sewing predates the weaving of cloth.
sewing circle
A
sewing circle is a group of people, usually women, who meet and work on sewing projects together.
sloper
A
sloper is a base pattern used to develop other patterns. Often called a Block or Master Pattern. This pattern is highly developed and very accurate pattern that is designed to fit a specific set of measurements. This pattern is used in turn to create other more stylized patterns.[26]
staystitching
A stay stitch is a stitch that is used inside the seam allowance to stop the fabric from stretching.[27]
A
tailor is a person who makes, repairs, or alters clothing professionally, especially
suits and men's clothing. Although the term dates to the thirteenth century, tailor took on its modern sense in the late eighteenth century, and now refers to makers of men's and women's suits,
coats,
trousers, and similar garments, usually of
wool,
linen, or
silk.
tailored
tailor-made (from the second half of the twentieth century usually simplified to tailored) refers to clothing made by or in the style of clothes made by a tailor, characterized by simplicity of cut and trim and fine (often hand) finishing; as a women's clothing style tailored is opposed to
dressmaker.
Montgomery, Florence M. (2007). Textiles in America, 1650-1870: a dictionary based on original documents (2nd ed.). W. W. Norton. p. 295.
ISBN978-0-393-73224-5.
Terms used in sewing, tailoring and related crafts.
This glossary contains terms used in sewing, tailoring and related crafts. For terms used in the creation or manufacturing of textiles, including spinning, knitting, weaving, and individual fabrics and finishing processes, see
Glossary of textile manufacturing. For terms used in dyeing, see
Glossary of dyeing terms.
To
baste is to join fabric together with long removable stitches.
bias
The
bias direction of a piece of
wovenfabric, usually referred to simply as "the bias", is at 45 degrees to its
warp and
weft threads. Every piece of woven fabric has two biases,
perpendicular to each other. Non-woven fabrics such as felt or
interfacing do not have a bias.
bias tape
Bias tape or bias binding is a narrow strip of fabric, cut on the bias. The strip's fibers, being at 45 degrees to the length of the strip, makes it stretchier as well as more fluid and more drapeable compared to a strip that is cut on grain. Many strips can be pieced together into a long "tape." The tape's width varies from about 1/2" to about 3" (10mm to 75mm) depending on applications. Bias tape is used in making
piping, binding seams, finishing raw edges, etc. It is often used on the edges of
quilts, placemats, and bibs, around armhole and neckline edges instead of a facing, and as a simple strap or tie for casual bags or clothing. While bias tape can be handmade, it is also available in pre-packaged lengths (although usually only in basic colors).
binding
Binding is used as both a noun and a verb to refer to finishing a seam, edge or
hem of a garment, usually by rolling or pressing then stitching on an edging or trim.
A
dart is a common technique used for shaping garments. Darts are created by stitching out a wedge-shaped fold of fabric. They vary in width and length and can be tapered at one or both ends. They frequently appear around the bust and waist.
darning
1.
Darning is a technique for repairing holes or worn areas in
fabric or
knitting using
needle and
thread. It is often done by hand, but it is also possible to darn with a
sewing machine. Hand darning employs the darning stitch, a simple
running stitch in which the thread is "woven" in rows along the grain of the fabric, with the stitcher reversing direction at the end of each row, and then filling in the framework thus created, as if weaving.
2. Darning also refers to any of several needlework techniques that are worked using darning stitches, including pattern darning (a type of embroidery), net darning or filet lace, and needle weaving, a
drawn thread work technique.[1]
darning mushroom
A
darning mushroom is a tool used for
darning clothes, particularly
socks. The sock can be stretched over the "cap" mushroom, and gathered tightly around the stalk to provide taut surface for darning.
2.
Dressmaker as an
adjective denotes clothing made in the
style of a dressmaker, frequently in the term dressmaker details which includes
ruffles,
frills,
ribbon or
braidtrim. Dressmaker in this sense is contrasted to tailored and has fallen out of use since the rise of
casual wear in the mid-twentieth century.
drop shoulder
A shoulder seam which extends past the actual shoulder point.[2]
Eyelet may refer to a
metal,
plastic, or
rubber ring that is inserted into a hole made through another material; in this case it is synonymous with
grommet. They may be used to reinforce the hole, to shield something from the sharp edges of the hole, or both. An eyelet may also be the hole itself, held open with stitches.
The "front" of a piece of fabric having a distinct front and back; same as right side.
facing
A facing is fabric used to finish the raw edges of a garment such as at neckline and armhole. Shaped facings are cut to match the edge they will face, and bias facings are strips of fabric cut on the bias or cross-grain and shaped to fit edge.[3][full citation needed]
fusible interfacing
Commonly referred to as simply "Fusible" it is an
interfacing fabric with glue on one or both sides that is ironed onto either a lining, facing or body fabric to provide structure.
Gathering is a technique for shortening the length of a strip of
fabric so that the longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece. It is commonly used in
clothing to manage fullness, as when a full
sleeve is attached to the armscye or cuff of a
shirt, or when a
skirt is attached to a
bodice.
In simple gathering,
parallel rows of
running stitches are sewn along one edge of the fabric to be gathered. The stitching threads are then pulled or "drawn up" so that the fabric forms small folds along the threads. Multiple rows of gathering are called shirring.[4][5]
A
gore is a shaped segment, narrow at the top and wider at the base, extending from the waistline to the hem of a skirt. Flared skirts can be made of 2 or more gores.[8] Four-. six-. and eight-gore skirts are common.
grain
1. The lengthwise and crosswise grain of
fabric refer to the directions parallel to the
warp and
weft, respectively.
2. With the grain indicates parallel to the threads of a woven fabric, lengthwise or crosswise.
3. Dyed in the grain refers to
dyeing with
kermes, a red insect dye.[9]
gusset
A
gusset is a triangular or square piece of
fabric inserted into a seam to add breadth or reduce stress from tight-fitting clothing. Gussets were used at the shoulders, underarms, and hems of traditional
shirts and
chemises made of rectangular lengths of
linen to shape the garments to the body.[10]
Drapery header tape is a stiff fabric band sewn along the top edge of a
curtain to provide stiffness and stability to the fabric so that it does not sag.[13] To simplify the task of gathering pleats across the panel, the tape can be made with pleat pockets.[14] It can also be used to conceal
drapery hooks.[15][16] It is sometimes used in conjunction with gathering tape, and can be sheer to help stiffen delicate fabric.[16][17]
hem
1. To
hem a piece of cloth (in
sewing), a garment worker folds up a cut edge, folds it up again, and then sews it down. The process of hemming thus completely encloses the cut edge in cloth, so that it cannot ravel.
2. A hem is also the edge of cloth hemmed in this manner.
Interfacing is a common term for a variety of
materials used on the unseen or "wrong" side of
fabrics in
sewing. Interfacings support the fashion fabric ("shell fabric") of the garment and may be selected to change the hang of the fabric in some portions of the garment; for instance, a shirt collar has an interior stiffening from interfacing.
1.
Lining is an inner layer of fabric, fur, or other material that provides a neat finish; conceals seam allowances, interfacing, and construction details; and allows a garment to slip on and off easily.[18][19]
Pad stitching is used to secure two pieces of fabric together with perpendicular stitches. Pad stitching is mainly used for lapels and collars to maintain their shape.
pattern
In
sewing and
fashion design, a
pattern is an original
garment from which other garments of a similar style are copied, or the paper or cardboard
templates from which the parts of a garment are traced onto
fabric before cutting out and assembling (sometimes called paper patterns).
Home sewing patterns are generally printed on
tissue paper and sold in packets containing sewing instructions and suggestions for fabric and
trim.
piping
Piping is a type of
trim or embellishment consisting of a strip of folded
fabric inserted into a seam to define the edges or
style lines of a
garment or other textile object. Usually the fabric strip is cut on the
bias or cross-grain, and often it is folded over a cord. It may be made from either self-fabric (the same fabric as the object to be ornamented) or contrasting fabric, or of leather.[20]
placket
1. A
placket is an opening in the upper part of
trousers or
skirts, or at the neck or
sleeve of a garment Plackets allow clothing to be put on or removed easily.[21]
3. A slit to allow access to a hanging
pocket, or a
petticoat or skirt pocket.[21]
pleat
A
pleat (older plait) is a type of
fold formed by doubling
fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in
clothing and
upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference.[22]
Pleats are categorized as pressed, that is,
ironed or otherwise heat-set into a sharp crease, or unpressed, falling in soft rounded folds. Pleats may also be partially sewn flat and allowed to fall open below.
pocket
A
pocket is a bag- or envelope-like receptacle either fastened to or inserted in an article of
clothing to hold small items. In older usage, a pocket was a separate small bag or pouch.[23]
The "front" of a piece of fabric having a distinct front and back; same as face. Sometimes called the "public" side.
ruching
A gathered overlay. The fabric is gathered on two parallel sides and stitched to an underlay, creating a shelf effect. It is often done in sheers, like chiffon
running stitch
A
running stitch is an embroidery stitch that passes in and out of the fabric in a straight line. This stitch can be used to
baste fabric pieces together.
A
seam or seamline in
sewing is the line where two pieces of
fabric are held together by
thread.
seam allowance
A
seam allowance is the area between the edge of fabric and the stitching line on two (or more) pieces of material being stitched together. Seam allowances can range from 1/4 inch wide (6.35 mm) to as much as several inches. Commercial patterns for home sewers have seam allowances ranging from 1/4 inch to 5/8 inch.
The
selvage (US English) or selvedge (British English) is the term for the self-finished edges of
fabric. In
woven fabric, selvages are the edges that run parallel to the
warp, and are created by the
weft thread looping back at the end of each row. The selvage of commercially produced fabrics is often cut away and discarded.[24] Historically, garments were frequently constructed of full loom-widths of fabric joined selvage-to-selvage to avoid waste.
In
knitted fabrics,
selvages are the unfinished yet structurally sound edges that were neither
cast on nor
bound off.[25]
Sewing is an ancient craft involving the stitching of
cloth,
leather, animal skins,
furs, or other materials, using
needle and
thread. Its use is nearly universal among human populations and dates back to
Paleolithic times (30,000 BC). Sewing predates the weaving of cloth.
sewing circle
A
sewing circle is a group of people, usually women, who meet and work on sewing projects together.
sloper
A
sloper is a base pattern used to develop other patterns. Often called a Block or Master Pattern. This pattern is highly developed and very accurate pattern that is designed to fit a specific set of measurements. This pattern is used in turn to create other more stylized patterns.[26]
staystitching
A stay stitch is a stitch that is used inside the seam allowance to stop the fabric from stretching.[27]
A
tailor is a person who makes, repairs, or alters clothing professionally, especially
suits and men's clothing. Although the term dates to the thirteenth century, tailor took on its modern sense in the late eighteenth century, and now refers to makers of men's and women's suits,
coats,
trousers, and similar garments, usually of
wool,
linen, or
silk.
tailored
tailor-made (from the second half of the twentieth century usually simplified to tailored) refers to clothing made by or in the style of clothes made by a tailor, characterized by simplicity of cut and trim and fine (often hand) finishing; as a women's clothing style tailored is opposed to
dressmaker.
Montgomery, Florence M. (2007). Textiles in America, 1650-1870: a dictionary based on original documents (2nd ed.). W. W. Norton. p. 295.
ISBN978-0-393-73224-5.